Mechanical Clocks
(If you are looking for watch buying tips instead, click Here.)
Many clock buyers call me to ask for advice, so here are some general tips on what to look for and what to avoid when buying a clock. I will try to address all types of clocks in this essay, and will try to offer advice to buyers with little or no prior experience with clocks.
When considering a new or used clock, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of choices to consider. If you are looking for a new grandfather (floor) clock, the factors can be simplified. In the United States, there are currently three major manufacturers, Howard Miller, Ridgeway, Sligh, and numerous smaller manufacturers. Howard Miller is considered to be the GM of clocks. The manufacturers produce the cabinets and install the mechanisms and call the results "clocks." Buyers should examine the individual cabinets as they would other pieces of furniture for fit and finish and quality. Cabinets are made of "cherry (or oak) solids and veneers," for example: if you want a "100% cherry (or oak or mohogany)" cabinet, you would have to buy an older clock. There are three major manufacturers of mechanisms, Kieninger, Hermle, and Urgos, all of which are German. As a new clock buyer, I would ask for a Kieninger mechanism with chimes mounted on the back of the mechanism (rather than chimes mounted on the side) and cable driven (rather than chain driven) with three weights. I should add that the Hermle 1171-850 mechanism is the finest Hermle mechanism I have seen (as good as any Kieninger), and it should not be overlooked. Buy from a clock dealer rather than a general furniture store because a clock dealer can offer you much better after-sales service in the event of problems. Make sure the clock you see is the clock you buy, rather than getting a clock delivered from a warehouse, because the unseen clock may not be exactly what you expected. Even though two clocks may be of the same model, they may be slightly different in appearance. The unseen clock may have unexpected damage from shipment, a situation which you could avoid if you got the clock you saw in the shop. Be sure to look for dents or scratches on the surfaces of the weights and pendulum and have such problems taken care of before you buy. Avoid buying the least expensive models you see because you usually get what you pay for. If you select a clock costing about 40 to 50% more than the cheapest models, with a Kieninger mechanism as described above, you will probably get a really nice and durable clock. For example, if the lowest prices for floor clocks in your area is about $1000, you should consider spending $1400 to $1500. You could buy a much more expensive clock, but the mechanism would not be much better.
Buying a used clock, especially an antique, is much like buying a used car: caveat emptor (buyer beware)! Most older clocks have not been fully serviced (overhauled) prior to being offered for sale because the cost of overhauling each clock frequently eliminates any profit the dealer could make. Most dealers, therefore, do only the minimum necessary to get the clock running, leaving the buyer with the problem and expense of overhauling the clock a year or two after buying it, if not sooner. If the clock dealer also repairs clocks and has a long-established reputation to uphold, he will probably be telling the truth when you ask whether the clock has been overhauled prior to sale. Be sure to ask. If you are buying at an auction, you are completely on your own (particularly if you are buying in the internet!). Make sure none of the parts are missing (this requires a well-educated buyer). In general, I prefer a clock with weights instead of mainsprings. Spring-driven clocks usually do not last as long as comparable weight-driven clocks. I prefer a clock with a pendulum instead of a balance wheel. Buying a clock with a balance wheel usually involves much more risk, since these are frequently much more difficult to repair if there were problems.
Virtually every new wall clock has a pendulum, but would be spring driven instead of weight driven. There are some used wall clocks that are weight driven, however: these are rather more difficult to find.
Almost all new mantle clocks have mainsprings and balance wheels. These clocks tend to be more user friendly and could be recommended to buyers who know nothing about taking care of a clock. However, these clocks are usually less durable and will need more frequent service. Buying a used mantle clock can be risky unless you know how to check for broken mainsprings (which can be an expensive repair): wind each mainspring until it feels like it is fully wound. If the mainspring is easy to wind and seems to wind forever without becoming fully wound, the mainspring is probably broken. If the clock is fully wound and cannot be wound further, but the clock stops periodically or will not function, then there would be a different problem, such as the pendulum being out of adjustment, or something more serious. A small clock with mainsprings and a shorter pendulum will keep time much less accurately than a comparable clock with a long (39 inch) pendulum and weights.
Anyone looking for anniversary clocks or electric clocks really needs to know what to look for before buying one. An inexperienced buyer should only buy one of these clocks from a clock repairer, who has serviced the clock before offering it for sale. Though some of the older electric clocks were very well made and durable, most are very badly worn after decades of use and lack of maintenance, resulting in costly repairs.
One special category of clocks to consider carefully is French clocks. The French clock industry produced many of the finest clocks on the market. Many of these clocks were exceptionally well made. However, most of these clocks are not very user friendly, and customers frequently have difficulties keeping them running. If you know how to set up a clock, a French clock would be a fine addition to your home. If you know little about clocks, you would be wise to avoid French clocks in general. French clocks are also considerably more difficult to repair than most German, American, or British clocks. Many avid collectors of French clocks will be disappointed to read this, but very few collectors know how to repair clocks. As a collector and a repairman, I prefer clocks that are not only well made, but also user friendly, reliable, and durable. I believe that a high grade clock which is difficult to keep running, or which needs frequent attention (repairs), is not a desirable clock, regardless of its market value.
Another category is grandfather clocks with tubular bells, such as Elliott and Herschede among older clocks, Urgos and Hermle among newer clocks. Some of these clocks are magnificent creations, offering the most sophisticated mechanisms the industry has to offer. These are, however, very complicated, difficult and expensive clocks to repair, and they require more frequent repairs than other grandfather clocks. Consider one of these clocks only if expense were no object.
Though Atmos clocks by Jaeger Le Coultre (Vacheron & Constantin, Geneva, Switzerland) are fascinating and very high grade (all brass parts are gold plated), they are extremely sensitive and easy to damage (and exceptionally difficult and expensive to repair). Inexperienced buyers should avoid them. Experienced buyers who cannot repair them should also avoid them. Update: I can no longer buy parts for Atmos clocks. I understand that the parts problem also plagues many of the better Swiss watch brands, such as Le Coultre, Rolex, Omega, Longines. In 1998, I could buy any part for any of my watches. Not today: if I cannot repair a product because I cannot buy parts for it, I consider it to be a very poor investment and can only recommend against purchasing it until the parts situation improves.
After you buy a new or used clock, it should be lubricated by a professional at least every five years, and overhauled every ten years, though many smaller clocks may not run ten years before needing to be overhauled. A typical clock with Westminster chimes has about forty different spots that require lubrication. Since the best lubricants last about six years, every clock should be inspected carefully at least every five years and lubricated as needed.
Quartz Clocks
These clocks have an important place in the market because they can offer insuperable timekeeping at the lowest possible cost. I believe the best quartz clocks on the market today to be the radio-controlled digital clocks (also called "atomic" clocks). Avoid the ones that take AAA batteries and choose one with AA batteries instead. The analog clocks (with hands) are also good, but they can be more difficult to adjust: the digital ones set themselves automatically! In the United States, these clocks adjust themselves every day using signals from the WWV.
Few quartz clocks are radio-controlled. If you want a regular quartz clock, look for one with a Tochigi (Japan) mechanism. Braun and Junghans (both German) also make very good quartz mechanisms. Many quartz clocks have a pendulum, which swings from side to side as decoration. Some also have synthetic chimes. These features add considerably to the complexity of the mechanism, and usually fail before the timekeeping portion of the mechanism fails. Keep it simple an avoid these features. Particularly prone to early failure is the oscillating pendulum of quartz anniversary-style clocks, which should be avoided.
The most frequent cause of failure in battery-operated clocks is leaking batteries. If acid from a leaking battery reaches the circuit board or the micro-chip in the clock, the clock is probably ruined and the mechanism would need to be replaced. You can reduce the risk of acid damage by inserting a small piece of tissue paper next to the negative terminal of each battery, using a toothpick or a tweezer. The tissue paper would absorb most of the acid and minimise the risk of damage to the clock, camera, radio, TV remote, telephone, or whatever you have that uses batteries.
I hope you find this information useful.
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